AHA acids in creams

hello again. I am having a lot of trouble formulating a cream with AHAs (~10%) in it. its a beautiful cream until i add the acids (glycolic/lactic/fruit acids) and the viscosity just goes to pretty much water. 

can anyone point me in the right direction?

the emulsifying system is

olivem1000 (5%)
Cetyl alcohol (1.5%)
carnauba wax (0.5%)
oils (6%)
potassium cetyl phosphate (1.5%)
steric acid (0.5%)

I have also used decyl glucoside in the water phase to give it cleansing ability.

i am sure i have asked this question before at some point but i am still having trouble :(


  • ozgirlozgirl Member, PCF student
    I have made a cream using Multifruit BSC (AHA/Fruit acids). The cream was very thick until we added the Multifruit BSC at 1-2% and then it thinned considerably.

    Maybe try increasing the viscosity of your base cream and lowering your AHA/fruit acids to get a product that meets your requirements.
  • @ozgirl mine does exactly the same! problem is, it gets so thick (before i add the acids) that the tank stirrer struggles! its an incredbily drastic change in viscosity

  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Use a thickener system to compensate.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Are you willing to use silicon/dimethicone/polymer blends?
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    What is the final pH of the product? Many emulsification systems get wonky at a low pH as is common with these products. For a more acid stable system look at some of the Seppic products that are more stable at low pH. George Deckner wrote an article about it recently. If you have access to Prospector, here is the link.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • MichelleReece  unfortunately, client wants nothing to do with silicon/dimethicone/polymers

    Microformulation  yeh i know about sepigel and have used it. its amazing! but again, clients arent into 'chemical-y' sounding INCI names :(

    good article though!

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