Emulsion or Suspension? Hmm

I'm an Esthetician (and chemist wanna-be) and the day spa where I work recently brought in a well-known Hungarian skin care line. After reading the ingredient declaration for their facial creams I noticed the only "emulsifier" is Xanthan gum. They utilize 2 or 3 vegetable oils, shea butter, extracts, and xanthan gum. That's it - outside potassium sorbate and salisylic acid as their "preservative". The textures are to die for. I didn't realize one could make a cream this way. So is it really an emulsion or a suspension - or both?

I want to do a knock-off just for the heck of it.  What do you think the starting point should be for gum in the absence of emulsifiers and fatty alcohols? I must say though, that the only thing I don't like is the rub-out. Not very appealing to watch but feels good once rubbed in.

Comments

  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    edited November 2016
    There are other types of emulsion systems beside the ones that are discussed all the time. Xanthan gum (or for that matter pectin and other polysachharides too) can make a very effective emulsion system when paired with small amounts of certain organic acids. I'd need to see the complete LOI to be sure. At any rate, gum used at a sufficient percentage will, just like carbomer, act as an emulsifier because it prevents the migration of polar from nonpolar.
    You ask for a starting point. Well, first see if xanthan + salicylic acid + lipids is an emulsion system. Unfortunately I can't give you a suggested ratio but you can find:

    United States Patent 119] Tezuka et a1. 
    [11] 4,278,657 [45] Jul. 14, 1981 
    [54] CREAMY OR MILKY SKIN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING NATURAL MATERIALS AS EMULSIFYING AGENTS 
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    edited November 2016
    Start point: 1.5% gum to 0.5% acid.
    And please I would appreciate it very much if you would let me know the results since these types of systems are quite interesting to me.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Cool thanks Belassi! I sure will.  
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    Another possibility is a very interesting raw material from Kemin, called Lysofix. INCI name is Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, but has a big chunk of lysophospholipids in it, which act as emulsifiers.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • Thanks Bobzchemist. I'll look into that. Very interesting
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    another possibility is that they are in fact using ordinary emulsifiers, and the ingredients list is incomplete
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • Yes, I wondered if that was the case Bill-Toge.
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