Curdling with Triethoxycaprylylsilane coated Zinc oxide - what's causing it?

The whole formula curdled around 45C during cool down under ~500 rpm mixing, then after high shear mixing and further cooling to 40C, the curdling was gone and the formula became homogeneous, thick and stringy - very strange and I've only seen this with coated ZnO, any idea what could be causing it?

Water phase

Water, Sodium PCA, Allantoin, Glycerin, Sclerotium Gum, Hyaluronic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Niacinamide, Panthenol.

Oil Phase
Zinc Oxide,Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride, Caprylyl Methicone, Ceterayl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Argan Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopherol. 




Comments

  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Possibly the gum is reacting with another component, one of the organic acids. Try knocking out the gum and see.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • I only see this with Triethoxycaprylylsilane coated ZnO, non-coated ZnO is fine. Could try Xanthan Gum instead.
  • @Belassi think you were correct, xanthan gum fared a lot better!
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Great, that's always good to hear! Glad it worked out.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
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