Natural Press Eye Shadows

cindyhrcindyhr Member, PCF student
I am trying to create a pressed eye shadow and blush formula without using Dimethicone. 

Does anyone one know of a natural binder for pressed color products that does not contain Dimethicone?  

I tried a product called Cosmosurf C-E100 that was recommended to me but when I pressed the shadows they were too loose to hold together. 


  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    If your shadow does not hold together, that is a very strong indication that you either don't have enough binder in your formula, or that you did a very poor job of pulverizing the binder into your powder, or both. It's also possible that your psi for pressing is too low, or your dwell time is too short. Did you try different binder levels? Longer mixing times? Higher pressure or longer dwell time?

    Also, binder systems consist of several components, dry and oil-based. What are you using for a dry binder? If you post your formula, we can help further.

    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • cindyhrcindyhr Member, PCF student
    Hi Bob,

    When I used Cosmosurf the formula was: 60% Mica Powder, 40% Mica Color, 6% Cosmosurf and 4% Zinc Stereate. I ground it in an Oster and pressed with a manual One Ton Arbor Press. Using a few drops of alcohol in the pan before pressing.

    Should I use Magnesium Stearate instead of Zinc?

    In a few weeks I will be getting an automatic powder press from Eugeng and I will be able to apply more consistent pressure. I want to get a good formula together before then so I don't waste a lot of shadows practicing. 
  • cindyhrcindyhr Member, PCF student
    Also, is there something better than an Oster for blending or it that best?
  • cindyhrcindyhr Member, PCF student
    Sorry, I used 30% Mica Pigment not 40%. 
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