Simulgreen 18-2

Have anyone here tried formulating with SEPPIC's Simulgreen 18-2 (inci: Hydroxystearyl Alcohol and Hydroxystearyl Glucoside)? Here is the tech sheet. First thing that peaked my interest was that it’s supposedly “invisible” on application and does not produce the dreaded soaping effect. It’s also stable across a broad range of pH (3-10), can withstand electrolytes and at 3 % it spontaneously creates a cream texture.

As a home crafter, this product would make my life much simpler, so I obviously decided to try it. I have not been pleased with the results. It claims to be able to emulsify a large amount of oil at low levels (1-3 %), but my simple formula with just 8 % oil, separated after only a few days. Prior to it separating, the viscosity was too low and did not provide the cream texture it claims to. It’s probably worth mentioning that I did not add any stabilizing ingredients because I wanted to see how well it behaved on its own.

So after that failed, I tried again, this time with a larger oil phase, 20 %, and more emulsifier, 4 %, even though the tech sheet recommends between 1-3 % but then provides sample recipes that uses 4 %. The final product ended up being a bit thicker, but not nearly thick enough. It’s now one day later and I can already tell that it’s starting to separate.

Another annoyance is that I have not been able to find clear instructions on how to use it. The tech sheet provides sample recipes, but does not provide any explanation of the methods. So far I’ve come across sites like Lotioncrafter which provide some guidance, but parts of their info conflicts with the tech sheet.


Comments

  • Have not used it, but Looks like you need an emulsion stabilizer---xanthan gum or a polymer -I think they say that in Data Sheet.
  • ChristopherChristopher Member
    edited March 2017
    Yeah, I'm planning on doing that next with hydroxyethylcellulose. They don't specifically say that (unless I missed it) but I can see that they use a stabilizer in most (if not all) of their sample formulas.

  • johnbjohnb Member, Professional Chemist
    All of the example formulations given in the data sheet you reference contain one or more stabilisers.

    Can I suggest to you that you gain a little more experience in product formulation before you proceed much further with your experimentation. The owner of this site produces courses on cosmetic formulation (see to the right of this page) or I have posted details of an online (downloadable) textbook on cosmetics https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/2807/book-available-for-free-download#latest

  • @Christopher

    I had this same experience with this ingredient 2 years ago. Around that time, I had the chance to attend the NYSCC Suppliers Day and questioned the representatives from Seppic on these instability issue. They basically told me it was not their best emulsifier and that I should use one of their stabilizers such as Sepigel 305. I did not try this as my customer at that time did not want any kind of acrylates or polysorbates in their formula so I had to replace the emulsifier and have never again touched this ingredient as it just made me waste time. 
    I successfully replaced it with Olivem 1000 which emulsifies, builds viscosity and gives no soaping effect. 


  • DavidDavid Member
    edited March 2017
    For beeing an Ecocert/Cosmos material it works fine and I had success with it. However, I wouldn't dream of using it unless a certified end product was requested from my customer.
  • Thank you for all the replies. It looks like I'll have to keep searching for a more suitable emulsifier. 

    @naturalchemist I'm weary of trying Olivem 1000 because I've heard conflicting reports regarding the soaping effect. Even though it's advertised as being free of the whitening effect, I've seen a lot of formulators having trouble with it. There's even a thread here where the formulator is having the same issues and is advised to add dimethicone. 
  • ZinkZink Member
    edited April 2017
    @Christopher

    I have the same experience as naturalchemist - Olivem in my silane coated zinc oxide sunscreen formula was much more stable. I haven't experienced any whitening effect from it either, but it needs slow mixing during cooldown after the initial emulsification to re-form a liquid crystal structure which in sunscreen applications is important. This can take 20+ minutes according to one study.

    There are also other liquid crystal emulsifiers like Monatov 68, but it my application it was also less stable than Olivem.
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