Off white Lightening Cream color

Please critique my lightening cream- 
I am having a soaping effect and my color is off-white.  I would like for it to be white.  Do you think this is strong enough for darker complexions. Should I increase the arbutin?

Water Phase----
Water (76%)
Alpha Arbutin (0.98%)
Allantoin (0.1%)
EDTA (0.1%)

Oil Phase---
Olivem 1000 (2.5%)
Stearic Acid (3.0%)
Shea Butter (2.5%)
Octyl Palmitate (1.0%)
Cetyl Alcohol (1.5%)
Cetearyl Alcohol (1.0%)
Glycol Stearate (2.0%)
Kojic Acid (2.0%)

neutralize phase
KOH (4% premix)

Cool Down 
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (3.0%)
Cucumber Extract (0.5%)
Vitamin E (0.4%)
Mulberry Bark Extract (0.5%)

Mikrokill cos (1.0%)


  • EVchemEVchem Member
    kojic acid is prone to discoloration over time. We use it cold process, but looks like you are heating so you may be speeding up the oxidation? What temperature do you go to?

    Of course it could be another ingredient as your culprit. Knockout test would probably be helpful for any suspects, I would say start with the Kojic acid though
  • I am heating the oil phase to 60C.  I dissolve it and add it in the cool down phase with the SAP.  Do I need more arbutin?
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    The melting point of Stearic acid is 69C so you'll want to heat it to at least that temperature or a few degrees higher.
  • Chemist5000Chemist5000 Member
    edited July 2018
    @Perry ; --thanks!!!---
     I was told i may need to neutralize the stearic acid.  is this true and should I wait till the end to do an adjustment?
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Try it and see what the pH is. You may well find it is directly suitable.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
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