Phytol in innovative cosmetic ingredient - the mechanism of working

There is such ingredient as MossCellTec™ No. 1 has appeared on the market in 2018. INCI: Phytol (and) Isomalt (and) Aqua. The manufacturer declares: "A novel active ingredient was developed using the innovative moss cell technology. The moss active demonstrated a positive influence on cell nucleus health genes and supported skin adaptation to climatic changes in vitro and in vivo. The result is a more refined skin tone and a more resilient skin after just two weeks". But doesn't explain what are the mechanisms.  (
one of the scintific publication is here:
Does anybody have an idea how phytol could work in this case?


  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    To figure out how things work you first have to figure out what it is supposed to be doing. Let's look at the claims you listed...

    1.  "novel active ingredient" - this can be said of pretty much anything.
    2.  "innovative moss cell technology" - so what? 
    3.  "demonstrated a positive influence on cell nucleus health genes " - I have no idea what this even means. What are 'health genes'? What is a 'positive influence'? This is just meaningless claims.
    4.  "supported skin adaptation to climatic changes" - what does it mean to 'support skin adaptation'? What is a quantifiable measurement that could be made to verify this claim?  This means nothing if you can't measure it.
    5.  "more refined skin tone" - How do you measure a 'refined' skin tone? 
    6.  "more resilient skin" - how do you define and measure 'resilient' skin? The before and after pictures they show in the article are not notable.

    The marketing of this material is typical sciencesploitation where they try to dazzle you with biochemistry explanations and make the benefits vague enough that it would apply to pretty much anything.

    I don't know how phytol works or even if it works. But I know that in their paper they didn't compare how the ingredient performs against the best technology available, so I'd say this is little more than a claims ingredient that would support a product story featuring moss.

    I really wish raw material suppliers did a better job with their marketing. 
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