Trouble shooting mattes ! S.O.S

so I developed a awesome matte formula that I’m super in love with. the pigment, blend ability and the skin feel is perfect , I’m not in love with how it’s pressing with my manual press. Seems to be lifting and cracking at the top layer? How do I fix this?

I used 3.5 grams of zinc sterate and 2.5 grams of magnesium sterate as my dry binder I had 19 grams colourant 17 grams fillers (not including my dry binders) and I used isododecane, sillicone gel, and isopropyl mysterate as my liquid binders and it all came in under 2.5 grams.

what did I do wrong. should I reduce my dry binder amount or maybe add in more liquid binder? The shadow underneath is perfectly pressed it’s just this top layer lifting( with my manual press I have to press in layers )


  • Drop the MG stearate just use the zinc stearate to start with
    Dr. Catherine Pratt
    (B.Sc with HONS I , Ph.D Analytical/Organic Chem and Microbiology), Cosmetic Chemistry IPCS)
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