Improving Emulsion Sensory properties

edited April 24 in Formulating
Hi everyone, 
I am working with Polyaquol 2W (Polyglyceryl2-stearate and Glyceryl Stearate and Stearyl Alcohol) and trying to create a low viscosity emulsion suitable for a treatment pump bottle. 

I want this to be a gel cream, like a runny yogurt, silky, but emollient. Here is my trial formula:
HOT:                                                                              

Water: 76.6%                                                                                                                   
Chelating Agent: 0.1%.                                                   
Propanediol 1,3:    3%.                                                       

Solagum: 0.3%.         
Glycerin: 3%

Oil: Babassu 5%
       Moringa Oil: 4%
    
       PolyAquol: 4%

COOL DOWN: Vit. E 0.5%, EO: 0.5%, Chia seed Extract: 1.5%, Germall Plus: 0.5%

I love the viscosity of this, it is like a runny yogurt. It has nice slip and glide, medium play time BUT once it's absorbed it goes through this phase of being very moist, almost tacky but not greasy at all, and then disappears, leaving skin feel soft and powdery.

I want it to leave a more emollient feel, but I do not want to thicken it. I know that a fatty alcohol won't thicken it much due to the nature of this emulsifier, but it will thicken it a bit. I tried Brassica Alcohol, but that keeps the drier powdery feeling, so I don't want that. I know that the higher the oil phase, the thicker it will be. Can I get away with less emulsifier? Will a different gum change the texture?

So many questions. 

Your suggestions are much appreciated. 

Anca
 

Comments

  • ggpetrovggpetrov Member
    edited April 24
    I didn't like the PolyAquol. All of my emulsions have broken, because of the preservative (Optiphen). Anyway, if you are not concern about the use of synthetic emolients, I'd suggest you to use some mineral oil. I find it very occlusive but without being greasy and shiny.

  • Thank you ggpetrov. I don't do synthetic but I can replace the Moringa with Avocado. 

    I chose PolyAquol 2W because I was attracted to the liquid crystal nature that is supposed to be highly stable. Not sure what your motivation was for choosing PolyAquol, but did you find another natural emulsifier you liked better?
  • ggpetrovggpetrov Member
    edited April 25
    I am not sure if PolyAquol is suitable for low viscosity emulsions. I'd rather be use Glyceryl stearate citrate with the addition of small amount of Cetearyl alcohol. I also use the Emulsan, in combinations, and it also can create stable low viscosity emulsions. 
    Have you tried to put the PolyAquol into the hot water phase? That's an option too, and the sensorials should be different. 
  • Thank you! I will try it in water. t's supposed to yield lower viscosity in water than in oil, so that frees me up to increase the oil phase a tad. 
    Yes, Polyaquol can create very low viscosity emulsions, but not sprayable. It's self-emulsifying, so you can make an oil-less emulsion, with just water soluble ingredients and the emulsifier. Never heard of Emulsan, thanks for the tip, I'll look into it. 
  • Polyglyceryl 4 Laurate makes very thin emulsion
  • @ Abdullah: Thank you for your suggestion. I hadn't heard of this emulsifier and it sounds like an interesting one. It's cold processable!  In your experience, are cold process emulsions as stable as the liquid crystal ones?
  • Yes it is very stable. 
    Just use %0.3 xanthan gum or some carbomer in water phase. 
    And it is also liquid crystal.
  • I am interested in Polyaquol 2W for high viscosity lotion, can it make it?
    Do you have MSDS of the product? 
    Can you share it?
  • Hi Abdullah, thank you.

     Polyaquol is so cool, it can create a wide range of viscosities, from thin emulsions to some very nice rich creams when you increase the oil phase to around 20%. Adding a fatty alcohol doesn't change the viscosity much, but it makes for even nicer texture. Same for adding something like rice bran wax or myrica fruit wax. 
    Here is a ton of info for this emulsifier:

    http://innovacos.com/ingredients/formulience-2/polyaquol-2w/

  • @Anca_Formulator thanks for information.
    Do you know what is the percentage of each ingredient in Polyaquol? 
  • @Abdullah Unfortunately I don't.
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