Best oils to formulate???

Hello everybody!

I want know the opinion of formulators, what are the best powerful oils in general to formulate good creams for skin care? 

and what is the best ingredient ( ester or emollient) to leave skin feel soft? 

thanks fkr any opinion 😁


  • Oils are so have asked an impossible question.  Search their fatty acid profiles, and match that to your needs.  Oils really break down to fatty acid profiles.  Many are just high oleic..(omega 9)...and essentially interchangeable. 

    Some are way more fragile than others...and will require creative formulating to keep them hemp and rosehip etc...

    Others are super meadowfoam etc...

    Others are unique in that they provide different Black Currant = GLA's.

    Absorption rates are tied generally to their fatty acid profile....want moderate...Macadamia nut...want fast...try raspberry...etc...etc.

    Skin soft....I think that would take a semester...hehehe.  But I would say...that is the barrier function doing a lot of that heavy lifting.
  • It depends on what you mean by "powerful". I'm personally not a fan of plant oils since they have a chance of breaking me out.  

    For the choice of emollient, it depends on the emolliency, glossiness, fatty acid profile, stability in a formula, etc. There are a lot of choices to that. 

    I'm currently testing with the esters that are castor oil alternatives such as Tridecyl Trimellitate, Diisostearyl Malate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate. They provide more heavier duty emolliency, which will be good in combination with other light esters or emollients. 
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    jemolian said:
    ...Diisostearyl Malate... 
    Care to share some experiences with that one? Thanks in advance!

  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    It depends on what you are trying to accomplish but the proven, go-to oil in the industry is Mineral Oil.
  • @Pharma

    For Diisostearyl Malate, it was the first out of the three that i had tried. I was trying to find a heavier emollient for a longer lasting moisturization, so when comparing a few combinations and based on observation, the combination with the Diisostearyl Malate works best. My skin was actually quite moisturized throughout the whole day.  
    • Isononyl Isononanoate + Cromollient DP3A (Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate)
    • Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride + Squalane (Olive)
    • Isononyl Isononanoate + Haimalate DIS (Diisostearyl Malate)
    For Cromollient DP3A, it was moisturized for the short term but when i woke up, my skin was slightly dry.  

    So when comparing the following, they seem to work similarly. 
    • Isononyl Isononanoate + Haimalate DIS (Diisostearyl Malate)
    • Parleam (Hydrogenated Polyisobutene) +  Liponate TDTM (Tridecyl Trimellitate)
    When doing a patch test of 5% of each (Tridecyl Trimellitate, Diisostearyl Malate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate) in a gel based with Aristoflex AVC, in the short term the moisturization feels very similar. Maybe it's just me, i somehow feel that the Diisostearyl Malate is very very slightly more moisturizing?

    Last night, I made a batch with just Tridecyl Trimellitate without the Parleam and my moisturizer still works. Just that it's not as fast spreading. I think i'll make a batch again with just Diisostearyl Malate alone and see how well it will compare. But i think the result would likely be similar. 

    I'm interested to try and see how Isopropyl Isostearate compares. 
  • PattsiPattsi Member
    Diisostearyl Malate doesn't spread well and the price is around x2 Tridecyl Trimellitate so haven't seen it in non-pigmented formulas or maybe I'm missing some.
    Diisostearyl Malate film thicker than Tridecyl Trimellitate.

    jemolian said:

    • Parleam (Hydrogenated Polyisobutene) +  Liponate TDTM (Tridecyl Trimellitate)
    would win for the cost efficiency.

  • jemolianjemolian Member
    edited April 30

    The cost was part of my consideration so that's why i bought the Tridecyl Trimellitate for testing. :smile: Normally i'd compare the cost from the china repackers, the cost is about 4 times of the Tridecyl Trimellitate per litre. 

    Normally i'd do some searches on the products that contains certain ingredients via some product database, like here for Diisostearyl Malate.

  • Thank you all for the opinion is difficult to now after read all this...  :dizzy:
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist

    The problem is that you are asking a very vague question and, honestly, there is no correct answer.  "Best" is a relative term based on your intended function, so in that context, there are many "bests" depending on what you want to achieve.

    But, generally, you're better off using oils that have a fatty acid profile that most closely resembles human sebum and absorb quickly:  Sunflower Seed Oil, Safflower Seed Oil, Prickly Pear Seed Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Squalane.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Thanks! Very interesting. You don't know by any chance where I might get a smaller quantity? Kokyu has a MOQ of 15 kg ;( .

  • jemolianjemolian Member
    Normally i'd purchase small samples from the repackers from China from Taobao and 1688. Not sure if you'd be able to purchase from there via a forwarder. For Diisostearyl Malate, the chinese term would be 二异硬脂醇苹果酸酯. 

    On Taobao, they have the small sample size for the Haimalate DIS (80g) that i purchased, Cosmol 222 (500g), and エステロール DISM (from National Mimatsu, 1kg). On 1688, they have 1kg or litre amounts. 

    I'd use Chemical Book to look for the chinese terms, so if there's anything else you need look for you can try the database. They list some of the chinese suppliers as well.

    I'm also trying to find SALACOS WO-6 (Dipentaerythrityl Tri-Polyhydroxystearate) but can't really find a sample amount. If you do have any leads, hope you'd let me know. :smile:
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